create jewels
with epoxy resin

Before pouring you should ensure a few things:

• Is the model sanded perfectly enough for molding?

• Is your workplace absolutely clean and, above all, dust-free?

• Are all the utensils available, especially cloths, mixing sticks and perhaps a mold for excess resin that you want to pour out later?

• Can you store the mold well and safely for it to harden?

preparations

Before you start

For my Ja-Kal bracers and leg bracers I need four similar turquoise gemstones. I previously made all four from air-drying modeling clay - this time there is a perfectly shaped stone that will serve as my model for all four.

For molding I use two-component silicone paste, which is kneaded in equal proportions until the mass has a homogeneous color. Since the silicone paste hardens in just about 15 minutes, kneading should be quick.

After about 30 seconds of kneading, the whole thing looks usable!

making your mold

Take your main color again and apply it carefully. Set highlights like shiny accents on places where you believe the armor could easily be polished and put less paint on difficult accessible areas. Let it fade out softly again and don't overdue the effect.

This step is really fulfilling! Now things like battle scars and dents from kneeling will be highlighted almost automatically.

Even a few paint strokes could look naturally when they were done earlier in an logical direction and now get patinated. If you're not satisfied, try repeating adding your "dirt paint color" again and overpaint it with the metallic color.

stabilize the mold

I added silver pigments and some acrylic paint to two-part epoxy resin until I achieved my turquoise tone. You should be VERY economical with the paint. A little white will help you if the color gets too dark. Mix everything very well and pour into the stable molds. To save resin, you can place smaller shapes in the mold... blown out eggs came in handy for me.

It's better to mix a little too much resin than too little! I poured out the excess resin flat on a plastic plate with a duct tape edge. Maybe I can use it later for other details.

When the resin has hardened, you can carefully remove it from the mold and then sand it further with fine sandpaper if necessary to get an absolutely smooth surface. Start with 180 grit and then move on to 240 grit and wet sanding with 400 grit. When you finish painting, for example with a satin spray film, you will get a wonderfully reflective surface.

pour & store it to harden